In April 2012 the government of Mauritania contracts a Spanish company to undertake a quite ambitious project, a irrigation system for a massive rice plantation . The purpose was meant to be the development of one on the poorest and less advanced areas , Brakna. Mauritania is very complex in terms of ethnicity, to summarise there are 3 distinguished groups: Moors, Africans and the mixture of them. According to a Mauritani feller I met in at the capital, Moors don't stand Africans and the other way around, so it is the mixed people the ones who played the mediator role. Most of Africans are setted in the South where there is poor infrastructure or lack of it. Despite this , I could see much more misery at the capital than in this forbidden peace of land. Life Aéré M'bar is pretty simple, I believe this is the key of their success.
The day I arrived it was raining so the path that leads to the camp was completely muddy. It was night and I could not see anything but the barracks and a terribly noisy generator which supplies the camp with electricity. A few meters away the village of Aéré M'bar sleeps silent and in a complete dark, the village still don't have electric supply. That night I only had time to set my bed and put my stuff in place. I would share the room with Manolo, my dear friend from Santiago. I was happy to have Manolo as a room mate, at least I had a friend at my side, someone to share all my thoughts and fears with. My friend Manolo is a big man in all senses. He had gained some extra weight since he stopped smoking due to a lung issue two years ago.
The production at the construction site was canceled due to the rains so from my first day on I little work to do .Most workers at the camp were extremely bored as they and spent their time watching TV and just staying in the camp. They didn't find anything interesting beyond the camp, moreover they didn't feel comfortable walking through the village. This fear was reciprocal for locals as they were not use to see 'whites' in such a forbidden place of the earth. In fact, when I first went for a run through thevillage some people looked at me as I was a ghost. Children made fun of me as they could not believe what they where witnessing; a milky guy just arrived from the UK ( where I usually get whiter), running without apparent reason. Later on they got use to see me and felt confident to join me. I remember Amadou, a 6 years old boy. He laughs all the time and runs very close to me as if showing up.
My friend Manolo liked to walk before lunchtime. He used to say: do we go for a walk to the swamp Pablo? Of course, in fact it will help you to lose weight. We use to talk about everything and in depth. I like people who delve into the details , I believe details are the essence of life.
Do you think that the water level will rise more? I don't think so Pablo, if it happens, water will get into town. They have been living here for a long time so they probably know how much the flood rises every year, don't you think? yes, you're right, we should ask them.
We also used to speak about personal topics. In fact he was thoughtful because his girlfriend unexpectedly had raised the topic of matrimony. She was afraid of a possible fatality in Africa and therefore remain without rights as they were not married. In regards to me , he advised me that it was time for me to have a serious relationship. I agreed
At the swamp women were washing their clothes while having a bath and children were playing in the water. They seem very happy, isn't it ? I think this is their favourite season, the rest of the year the swamp dries up and they cannot swim and play in the water. Don't you think that women might feel uncomfortable as we are around? I don't think so, They might have a different sense of shame, it might be natural for them to be naked outside.
It seems strange to go through the village and talk with nobody, they are so few ..... have you learned any word in Pulaar Manolo? I learned to say 'hello', 'how are you' and 'goodbye'. Where did you learn that Pablo ? Girls from the camp taught me a few words, they fell off the floor laughing when I was trying to speak in Pulaar. Now, when I meet a villager I use the few words I learned. But, do they understand you Pablo? Yes, and they answer with a big smile. I think that some of them asked me if I speak their language.... It is a shame, I would like to talk to them and ask lots of things ....
I think we better get back, it's lunchtime Pablo. OK, tomorrow we go for a walk , isn't it? yes, of course.
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